Sewing Wellness | Collette Costello

Author: Collette Costello

  • Type of Sewing Machine Stitches, Dressmaking

    Modern domestic sewing machines, come with many different stitch settings. Yet when learning how to sew, the only 2 stitches you need to know are straight and zig-zag stitch.

    • Use straight stitch, for general sewing, seams, hems and top-stitch.
    • Use zig-zag stitch, for over-locking edges and sewing stretch fabrics together.

    Many machines have decorative stitches, some can also be used to over-lock edges. For more stitches see “20 Basic Sewing machine stitches”.

    Sewing Machine Settings

    Sewing Machines come with many different settings, that can be changed dependant on what you are sewing. All the different dials and knobs on a sewing machine can be confusing.

    The only settings you need to change when learning how to sew, is the tension setting and stitch length.  For general sewing use a machine setting of between:

    • 3- 4 for tension
    • 2- 3 for stitch length

    Adjusting Tension Setting

    If when sewing the bottom thread is being pulled up through the fabric. Or the top thread is bunching under the fabric. You may need to change the sewing machine tension setting.

    • Use a lower tension for light-weight, stretchy fabrics.
    • Use a higher tension for thicker, tightly woven fabrics.

    At first only switch the tension 1 number at a time, to find which setting works best. For more details about how to do this, see “How to Adjust the Tension on a Sewing Machine”.

    Changing Stitch Length

    For general sewing, with straight stitch. As a beginner there are few reasons to change the stitch length from the standard stitch length.

    • The stitch length setting for standard sewing is 2-3.

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  • How to Stop Fabric Fraying, Over-lock Edges

    When sewing it is important to first stitch the edges of the fabric to stop it from fraying. This is called over-locking the edges and can be done with two types of stitches.

    How to overlock fabric edges for beginners guide

    Usually an over-locker sewing machine would be used to trim and stitch the edges of fabric. There are pros and cons to using an overlocker machine:

    • Overlocker Machine – Overlockers trim and stitch the edges of fabric, to give it a tidy and professional finish.
    • Over-lockers are expensive and can be hard to thread-up. Yet they are a good investment if you are doing a lot of sewing.  

    How to Overlock Fabric without a Overlocker Machine

    There are other ways to over-lock fabric when you don’t have a over-locker machine:

    • Pinking Shears – Pinking shears can be used to slow fraying or on fabrics that don’t fray such as felts or stretch fabrics.
    • Zig-Zag Stitch – The simplest way for beginners to do this is by zig-zag stitching the edges.
    • Hand-stitch – Hand-sewing can be relaxing and a good alternative to purchasing an over-locker machine. Use blanket stitch to overlock the edge of fabric by hand-stitching.

    How to zig-zag stitch overlock fabric edges

    Using a zig-zag setting on a domestic machine, will stop the edges fraying. Yet for a more professional look an over-locker machine is necessary.

    To use zig-zag stitches to overlock fabric edges, change machine settings use:

    • 2- 3 Stitch Length
    • 3- 4 Stitch Width

    Stitch close to fabric edge, without stitching over-edge of fabric. You can also use an overedge/ overcast foot, to overlock fabric on a domestic sewing machine.

    How to Overlock Stretch Fabric

    When over-locking the edges of stretch fabrics, zig-zag stitch and overlocker stitch can be used to seal edges.

    • Overlock stitches can be used to join two pieces of stretch fabric together, without overlocking the fabric pieces first.
    • If using over stitch to join two pieces of stretchy fabric. The seam allowance will needs to be reduced to 0.5cm, as the fabric will be stitched along the edge.

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  • How to Sew a Hem for Beginners

    A hem is when the edge of the fabric is folded and stitched. A hem is usually found at the bottom of skirts, trouser legs and sometimes sleeves.

    How to Hem Skirts, Trousers & Dresses

    Clothes are hemmed to finish the garment and to protect the bottom edges.

    To get a straight hem the fabric needs to be folded evenly. The hem allowance needs to be even.

    What is a hem allowance?

    The hem allowance is the amount the fabric is folded to stitch a hem is called the Hem allowance.

    • On straight skirts the hem allowance is usually between 2.5cm – 4.5cm.
    • On a flared circular skirt, a rolled hem allowance maybe as little as 0.5cm. 

    How to stitch a Hem

    Hems are easier to stitch if folded, pinned and ironed into place first.

    When sewing a hem, always stitch on the over-locked edge of the garment. This will help you sew straight and to stop the hem folding backwards when being worn.

    Different Types of Hems

    • Straight Skirts: If the hem is straight, without any curve. Like on a mini skirt or trouser leg. The hem allowance can simply be folded, then ironed and stitched down.
    • ‘A’ line skirts: If the hem is slightly curved, like on a flared “A” line skirt. The hem needs to be gathered slightly, this is sometimes called adding gathering ease. To help the hem curve slightly before it is stitched down. 
    • Circular Skirts: If the skirt is very, very flared, like on a circular skirt. Ease does not need to be added to help the hem curve. Instead the hem is stitch as a rolled hem.

    Top Tips:

    When sewing clothes it is best to sew the hem last. First try on the garment before pinning the hem, to make sure it is the right length. Hems can be stitched longer or shorter depending on the size of the body.

    How to Stitch Rolled Hem

    When sewing a rolled hem:

    • Use a small hem allowance of 0.5cm.
    • Gradually fold the edge and stitch.
    • Try using a rolled hem foot to roll the hem.
    • Use a slight zig-zag stitch to secure hem. 

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  • How to Fit a Sleeve Like a Professional

    When learning how to make clothes, it can be tempting to sew a dress together before fitting the sleeves. This can be fiddly and make it harder to fit the sleeves.

    Instead to fit the sleeves of a garment follow these step:

    • Stitch the garment shoulder seams together.
    • Make sure the sides of the garment are left open.
    • Add ease to the top of the sleeve, see link for how.
    • Fit the top of the sleeve to the garment armhole.
    • Then sew closed the sleeve and the side of the garment.

    Learn How to Add Ease, Gathers to Top of Sleeve

    Fitting Sleeve Cuff

    It is easier to fit a band cuff or to hem a sleeve, before sewing the sleeve together and attaching it to a garment.

    To attach a band cuff, simply fold the cuff in half. Making sure the cuff has interfacing attached. Then stitch it flat to the bottom of the sleeve. Then once the sleeve is attached to the garment, the cuff and sleeve can be closed at the same time.

    The same can be done for a skirt or trouser waistband. Attach the waistband first before sewing the garment together. Zips and buttons can be attached after the garment has been stitched together.

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  • How to Sew a Seam for Beginners

    When I stitched my first bag together, I was so happy. Yet my bag did not look like the bags sold in shops, it was wonky.

    When learning how to sew it is important to sew straight seams, to stop finished items looking wonky.

    What is a seam?

    A seam is when two pieces of fabric are stitched together.

    To get straight seams, you must stitch in a straight line. Ensuring the seam allowance is the same width and even.

    What is a Seam Allowance?

    A seam allowance is the gap between the fabric edge and your sewing line.

    • In dressmaking the seam allowance is usually 1.5cm or 1/2 inch.
    • The seam allowance on a dressmaking pattern maybe marked as S.A.
    • When sewing you need to keep your seam allowance the same width.

    Top Tips:

    • Straight stitch can be used to seam most fabrics.
    • Use zig-zag stitch seaming stretchy fabric.
    • Keep your seams straight by using a seam allowance guide.

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  • Top 10 Sewing Kits for Adults with Fabric and Pattern

    Sewing kits for adults are a perfect way for beginners to learn to how to sew on their own at home. Making it extra easy for beginners to start sewing their own cushions, handbags and clothes.

    Best ready to sew kits

    Ready to sew, sewing kits are a great option for beginners. There are many ready to sew kits for beginners that come with fabric and trimmings. Some kits even include pre-cut fabric so you can start sewing straight away.

    Top 10 Best sewing kits for adults

    Below is a list of the best sewing kits of adults. Many of the kits include fabric and patterns.

    Sewing kits for adults that include fabric and pattern:

    Dress making kits for beginners

    Ready to sew clothes kits make it easy to make dresses, blouses and trousers. The kits below come with a dressmaking pattern with matching fabric and thread.

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  • Top 10 Bag Kits to Sew

    Carrying a bag is a daily ritual, so why settle for the same old store-bought options? It’s time to unleash your inner designer and create a bag that’s as unique as you are!

    Why Make Your Own Bag?

    Imagine walking down the street with a bag that not only reflects your personal style but also meets your functional needs. With bag sewing kits, you can skip the shopping frenzy and create your own unique bag. No more compromising on colour, size, or design.

    What’s Inside a Bag Sewing Kit?

    These handy kits come with everything you need to craft a beautiful, functional bag. Here’s what you can typically expect:

    • Pre-Cut Fabric: Say goodbye to complicated cutting instructions! Each kit includes pre-cut fabric pieces, making it easier for you to start sewing right away.
    • Clear Instructions: Whether you’re a seasoned stitcher or a curious beginner, the clear, step-by-step instructions guide you through the process, ensuring you can create your masterpiece with confidence.
    • Essential Trimmings: Kits usually include all the necessary trimmings, such as thread, zippers, and hardware, so you won’t have to run to the store mid-project.

    Who Can Benefit from Bag Sewing Kits?

    Whether you’re a beginner eager to learn or an experienced seamstress looking to expand your skills, there’s a bag sewing kit ready to transform you into a bag-making pro.

    For Beginners

    If you’re new to sewing, these kits offer a perfect starting point. They provide all the materials and guidance you need to build your confidence and enjoy the creative process. You’ll be amazed at what you can achieve with just a little bit of practice!

    For Experienced Sewers

    Seasoned stitchers can use these kits to explore new styles and techniques without the hassle of sourcing materials. Challenge yourself with different bag designs, from tote bags to clutches, and elevate your sewing game.

    Get Started!

    Top 10 Bag Kits to Sew

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  • Best sewing machines for beginner UK | 1950’s Vintage Colours Under £200

    Discover the best sewing machine for beginners, for under £200 in the UK!

    This post contains trusted affiliate links.

    My Nanna was a fashion icon in the 1950’s. She would spend her mornings shopping for fabric and patterns, and her afternoons sewing her own clothes. She would often wear her handmade creations to the local dance that night.

    Clothes were expensive back then, so most women owned their own sewing machine. My Nanna had a blue 1950’s Janome machine with a wooden base. This machine was designed to last forever. Yet it was bulky, extremely heavy and only did straight stitch.

    Best Sewing Machine for Beginners Under £200!

    Available now is a vintage 1950’s style sewing machine, without the hassle. The “JL220 by John Lewis”, it is the best sewing machine for beginners.

    This sewing machine is available in many different 1950’s vintage colours. It is easy to use and can be used for most sewing projects.

    The JL220 by John Lewis features includes:

    • Selection of 22 stitches
    • 4 step buttonhole
    • Free machine embroidery
    • Most popular – Vintage Yellow £135
    • Best Features – Peppermint Green £190
    • Best Colour Pop – Damson Red £190

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  • Top 10 Sewing Books for Beginners 2026

    Sewing books are perfect for beginners, who want to learn to sew but don’t know where to start.

    Top 5 Sewing Books for Beginners, Many Under £15!

    Sewing books for beginners make a perfect gift for friends and family. Yet it can be hard to know which sewing book to choose.

    See my guide below of the top 5 sewing books, available to buy now on Amazon!

    • Best Seller, Sewing Bee Book – Must Buy!

    As featured on the hit TV Show, The Great British Sewing Bee book. Includes 25 dressmaking projects, shop now!

    • Perfect for Beginners, 300 Sewing Techniques!

    This book includes everything a beginners needs to know about sewing. The sewing book is essential for anyone new to sewing – Shop Now!

    • Best for Learning to Sew Clothes, Free Dressmaking Patterns included!

    Learn to sew clothes in just one afternoon using this book, Make it Simple. Quick, easy to follow dressmaking projects for beginners, shop now!

    • Try Next! Beginner to Confident Sewer Book, Includes Free Patterns

    Dressmaking the Easy Guide is the perfect next step book for any beginner want to learn how to make their own clothes, shop now!

    • 30 Step by Step Beginners Projects

    This book Simple Machine Sewing, will help to build the skills and confidence of any beginner. Contains 30 easy to follow projects, including how to make bags, home accessories and clothes. Shop Now!

    • Sustainable Sewing Book – Zero Waste Save Planet

    This Zero Waste book shows you how make clothes from one piece of fabric, creating no waste. Perfect for the eco-warrior in your life, shop now!

    Top 10 Best Sewing Books for Beginners

    The best sewing for beginners UK books are listed below. Included are books for complete sewing beginners to confident dressmakers. Covering everything from how to stitch basic stitches, to pattern cutting and toile making.

    Best for learning how to use sewing machine and basic stitches:

    Best for learning dressmaking and pattern cutting:

    Can you learn to sew from a book?

    Yes, you can definitely learn to sew from a book. Sewing books provide step-by-step instructions, diagrams, and photographs to guide you through the process of sewing. They can also teach you about different sewing techniques, fabrics, and patterns.

    Yet if you are serious about learning to sew, join a beginners online sewing class in addition to reading sewing books. This will give you the opportunity to practice what you learn and get feedback from an experienced sewing teacher.

    Where to buy sewing books U.K?

    1. Amazon: Amazon is a great place to find a wide variety of sewing books at competitive prices.
    2. Barnes & Noble: Barnes & Noble is another great option for finding sewing books. They have a large selection of books in stock, and you can also order books online for in-store pickup or shipping.
    3. Craftsy: Craftsy is an online retailer that specialises in craft supplies, including sewing books. They offer a wide variety of books, from beginner guides to advanced techniques. You can also find video classes and other resources on their website.
    4. Joann Fabrics: Joann Fabrics is a popular fabric store that also sells sewing books. They have a selection of books for all skill levels, and they often have sales on their books.
    5. Etsy: Etsy is a great place to find unique and handmade sewing books. You can find books by independent authors and designers, as well as vintage sewing books.

  • Unboxing Joy: Sewing Subscription Boxes for Beginners UK

    Every avid crafter knows the thrill of starting a craft project! Luckily, it’s never been easier to dive into crafting supplies and fresh project ideas with sewing subscription boxes.

    Why we love sewing subscription boxes?

    Imagine a delightful package arriving at your door, packed with everything you need to kick off a new sewing adventure!

    These boxes are ideal for beginners and those who have mastered basic stitches and want to enhance their skills. Each month, you’ll eagerly unwrap a box filled with new fabrics and projects.

    Like all great craft kits, monthly sewing subscription boxes simplify your creative journey. They come complete with colourful fabrics, essential tools, and easy-to-follow instructions to help you create stunning projects.

    Feeling inspired by the Great British Sewing Bee? Subscription boxes are also eco-friendly, providing just the right amount of materials for each project. This means less waste and more fun!

    What’s Inside the Best Sewing Subscription Boxes?

    We’ve rounded up some of the top sewing subscription boxes that are perfect for every sewing enthusiast. Whether you’re eager to try your hand at dressmaking or simply want some fab fat quarters, there’s something for everyone! Plus, you’ll pick up new skills with every project, letting you create beautiful pieces for your home and wardrobe.

    Most boxes come with an exciting project or pattern to tackle each month, while others offer a mix of lovely fabrics and supplies, encouraging you to unleash your creativity.

    Dive into our list of the best sewing subscription boxes below and find the perfect match for your crafting style. Happy stitching!

    Best 8 Monthly Subscription Boxes UK

    1. My Sewing Box: Offers a monthly box filled with sewing supplies, including fabrics, patterns, and notions, designed for various skill levels.

    2. Sew Hayley Jane: A curated box that includes high-quality fabrics, patterns, and treats for sewing enthusiasts, focusing on fun and creativity.

    3. Lamazi Fabrics: offers a fantastic range of sewing kits that include all the necessary materials to bring your sewing projects to life. With free UK shipping on orders over £75.

    4. Guthrie & Ghani: For those who enjoy a regular sewing challenge, Guthrie & Ghani has a brilliant monthly dressmaking kit subscription.

    5. Clothkits: If you’re after premium materials, Cloth Kits is the place to go. Their selection of dressmaking and crafting kits features luxurious fabrics like silks and soft linens.

    4. Simply Sewing Magazine Subscription: A magazine subscription that comes with free patterns, fabric bundles, and projects each month for sewing enthusiasts.

    5. Crafty Creatives: Provides a variety of crafting kits, including sewing projects, to inspire creativity and encourage new skills.

    6. Sewing for Success: An online subscription service providing unique sewing projects each month, along with access to online tutorials and community support.

    7. Sew Over It: A subscription that includes monthly patterns, fabric bundles, and exclusive access to new designs from a well-known UK sewing brand.

    8. The Crafty Kit Company: Offers a variety of crafting subscription boxes, including sewing kits that feature everything needed to complete fun projects.

    These subscription boxes cater to a range of sewing interests and skill levels, making them great options for anyone looking to enhance their sewing journey.

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